Text: Dariga Masenova Laudomy appeared in front of me in a bright coral costume, of course, from the spring collection of Emilio Pucci, not yet represented in branded boutiques. In her opinion, a coral universal color that is suitable for blondes and brunettes, lovers of a golden tan and, conversely, owners of an aristocratic pallor of skin. “I'm already starting to sell the collection right on my own!” Signora Pucci jokes.
Laudomy, you have traveled such an interesting life path. They started with political science and ended up as chairman and image director of Emilio Pucci. How do you succeed?
Laudomy: One must be open to new possibilities and difficulties of life. Do not hold on to one thing if stars fall at your feet. Of course, it is better when you are obsessed with what you love, but by nature I am a very curious person, and I constantly want to make discoveries.
For example, I’m interested in the world of new digital technologies, I couldn’t even imagine what the possibilities in this area are! In addition, I am interested in the geography and culture of various countries. I could not believe my eyes when I saw how Dubai has grown since I was here for the last time! I can say for sure: I’m not bored with the world changing, and I change with it.
Is it difficult to be Laudomy Pucci?
Laudomy: Bearing the Pucci name is a great honor for me. I did not understand this right away. Contrary to popular belief, nothing was given to me just like that: I had to learn a lot, gain invaluable experience, constantly justify the hopes of loved ones, especially my father. On the other hand, if you follow the advice of the “experienced” and do everything right, you have fantastic opportunities. Now I understand this even more. I don’t think that I would be able to see the fashion world opening up before me, if not for the memory of Emilio Pucci. He was for me the very first teacher, ideological inspirer and mentor. Of course, I have a huge responsibility, but if you want to keep the brand, you can’t relax.
They say you even lost weight for your father. Is it true that he controlled your figure?
Laudomy: Yes, but not because he was so strict. The proportionality of forms was his aesthetics. His father loved and respected women very much, and the female figure inspired him to original ideas. Countless fittings were part of his life. Technically, fitting is the calculation of centimeters. The extra volume on the line of the shoulders, chest, waist or back and my father could begin to rage quietly. It was very difficult for him to work with me, because I have a thin bone, and excess weight is reflected instantly and not quite beautifully. In addition, he loved the movement. Swimming and skiing were an integral part of our lives.
The Marquis Emilio Pucci di Barsanto was from a Florentine noble family. In order not to offend family pride, all the clothes he created were initially signed by Emilio. Therefore, a wide waist did not fit in the head of my father, who wanted his children to be beautiful and healthy. Believe me, I’m not talking about anorexic thinness, but about a strong, healthy, well-groomed body on which clothes are sitting as they should. My father wanted to see me like that.
Have you inherited from his father his love of sports?
Laudomy: Definitely, I enjoy sports. I love swimming, I can stay in the water for hours.
In 1949, Pucci opened his first boutique on the island of Capri, from where he continued to create and make sketches of previously non-existent clothing models. Then his famous capri pants appeared, which have since become an integral part of a fashionable wardrobe. Unfortunately, I stopped skiing several years ago due to an unpleasant incident. This is a rather dangerous sport. Now I am doing yoga. I don’t like going to the gym or running bored. I prefer to spend my free time in nature.
On the one hand, your father, on the other, Monsieur Givenchy, whom you worked for in your youth. Tell me how these two different, insanely talented people influenced you?
Laudomy: I am not often asked about this period of my life! The work and life of my father, perhaps, became decisive for me in choosing a profession. Now, as never before, I feel intimacy with him and unconsciously act as he would have done. I’ll tell you a secret: I went to work for Hubert de Givenchy, because I could no longer withstand the stress that I encountered every day in the company of my father. I told him: "Dad, I have no strength. With you I can’t relax, I’m tired of long hours of work. I’m young, I’m only 25!" To help me, he decided to send me to Paris to practice with Givenchy. And “going through practice” meant that they would not pay me. In addition, I did not have financial support from my parents. Those two months were incredibly difficult, but in the end my work did not go in vain, and I was offered a job at Givenchy atelier. Over the years, I realized that I was lucky enough to learn from the best. Both of these people stood at the origins of modern fashion and were adherents of the "old school". By this expression I mean design and attitude towards it. My father was primarily an experimental artist, and Hubert couturier, that is, before making sketches with a pencil, he began to work with fabric, and always on the model. Both of them radically differed from each other and from modern designers. Today, due to the digital age and the “fast” way of life, the work with fabrics takes place at the last stage. For them, fitting was in first place. Both Hubert and my father owned their own business, they
An experimenter by nature, Pucci presented the world with painted silk, “frivolous” colors, expressive patterns and a flirty stretch had talent, vision and perseverance. They were real dreamers, and each of them was meticulous in the smallest details. Hubert once called me in the middle of the night and asked how many raincoats we sold that day. I could not understand why he needed to know this, but he made it clear to me that attention to detail is the most important thing in business.
When I returned to work at Emilio Pucci, my father asked me to open the boutique's doors every morning. He explained this by saying that if I can learn how to welcome people and position myself correctly, it will help me better understand the needs of clients. My father could sell any model from the collection, because he knew how to "read" customers, like an open book. And he was glad to see each guest, regardless of age, social status and beauty.
Do you think the style of modern designers is very different from the distant "old school" fashion?
Laudomy: When I see children, of course, very ambitious, with a sparkle in their eyes and with masters diplomas who want to immerse themselves in the fashion industry with their heads, first of all I ask them what they can do with their own hands. In Italy, luxury items are perceived as works of art created mostly by hand. The "brand" is not the most important thing, the skill with which the collection was created is much more important. Even more interesting is the story of the creation of one or another element of the collection. In the end, customers can always ask themselves: "Why do we overpay so much for this thing?" It seems to me that beginning designers should return to the origins of the fashion industry, breathe more life, more soul into their business. "Lux" is not how much your brand is worth, but the quality of your work, crystal honesty to customers and protection of social rights of workers.
A strong voice of a political scientist is heard in your words!
Laudomy: Yes, but it's true! When I read about child labor or burning factories in Bangladesh, I get scared. This situation with modern fashion houses worries me greatly.
Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, now Peter Dundas ... What did each of these designers do for the brand?
Laudomy: I greatly respect each of them, because investing my time and original ideas in someone else's business is much more difficult. Moreover, when someone’s daughter is closely watching your work. But I try to look at their work with an open heart, to motivate and support their talent. I would like to see them on the same plane as the history of Pucci House, but at the same time give complete creative freedom.
Do you often return to the archives of Emilio Pucci?
Laudomy: Browse archives is a very responsible and difficult task for the designer. The archives provide insight into the brand’s heritage, but in order for the brand to “breathe” and continue to live, a fresh concept is needed. Therefore, I want designers to embody ideas that are relevant today. My father has already passed his segment of life, and with his departure a certain milestone in the history of the House was closed.
Peter Dundas really breathed new life into the House. How do you control his work?
Laudomy: In order to understand how to work better with Peter, I devote a lot of time to researching modern trends and design schools. We quickly found a common language. I respect him as a designer, and I am interested in working with him. Even if I don’t like some of his ideas, I give him a choice, because he is a creative person, and such people need freedom. As experience shows, he sees the market for several years to come, because he often sets trends that go from season to season. I get the role of a strategist.
I want to understand what image of Emilio Pucci we are designing, and if this is a new print or texture worthy of the House, then we add this formula to the “DNA” of the brand and move on.
You brought to Dubai exclusive items from the spring-summer collection. Tell a little about her.
Laudomy: The collection contains motifs of street graffiti, coupled with the cult emblems of Pucci crown, African prints and the number 1947 symbolic for the House, this is the year when my father created the first collection of ready-made clothes. Peter gathered all these “ingredients” from the past and made them relevant again. I think it's brilliant! For example, Peter presented the psychedelic blue print from the archives in a new interpretation, translating it into street chic style.
You travel often. Could you give our readers practical advice on how to pack a travel bag?
Laudomy: I always bring black shoes, a black blouse, a black cardigan and black trousers. They are very easy to combine with colorful clothes and accessories. Sometimes an evening outfit is added to this kit, such as a cocktail dress and a scarf. I like styling simple-cut things with colorful Emilio Pucci prints. My heart immediately becomes warm from the thought that my father is always with me.
Peter Dundas gave the House a second wind, adding relevance to the silhouettes and street chic of the brand’s aristocratic heritage. As before, there is an eclectic variety in materials and forms, and in colors, brightness and a call to action
