Text: Dariga Masenova AS A RULE, AT THE TIME OF A WEEK OF HIGH FASHION IN PARIS, A TRIUMPH OF DESIGNER THOUGHT IS EXPECTED BY A TRIUMPH. THIS YEAR THE MOST FINE AND EXTRAVAGANTE COLLECTIONS MIXED WITH THE ATTRIBUTE OF STREET STYLE, ANTIQUITY AND ROCK-N-ROLL.
The Valentino show instead of Paris was held in Rome, in the history of which the designers of the Italian House, Maria Grazia Curie and Pierpaolo Piccioli, took their inspiration. The collection was created in order to reflect the multilayer layer of culture and traditions hiding behind every stone of the ancient city. Symbolism has become the central theme of the show. Drapery, velvet, filigree wreaths, gold belts and Roman sandals with each new release of models in dresses that were simply tailored at first glance to the floor were combined with the scale of the Palazzo Mignellelli square. Among the audience was present, of course, and the founding father Valentino Garavani himself. Over his 50 years at the Roman Fashion House, Fendi and Lagerfeld shocked the public more than once. A true trendsetter, he effortlessly creates a cult behind the cult of the modern pop industry. Of the latter - the youth trend for bright ironic accessories made of fur, which other designers happily picked up.
As promised, Karl released a couture collection entirely made from fur. Of course, the ultramodern techniques that the family-owned Italian concern possesses cannot be repeated. The fur, like fabric, for the haute couture collection was turned into a base, which was stitched with silver leather, transparent plastic and decorated with collages of feathers. All this Lagerfeld complemented with high shiny boots.
Something fantastic was happening at the Armani Prive show. A bright palette of colors, like pearl stains in puddles, set the tone for the evening. The models seemed to have left the pages of the album, where the master made the first sketches: the same hairstyles, clear silhouettes ...
As a real illustrator, Giorgio Armani still chose black as the basis. Wide pants made of black velvet were complemented by jacquard jackets, silk boleros and costumes made of brocade and llama. And the inconspicuous rock and roll spirit Armani filed with the metallic effect of Swarovski crystals.
WEARABLE ART
Haute couture is often referred to as the kinetic art installation of clothing. The Amsterdam duo Viktor & Rolf literally created the so-called “wearable art” creations right on the catwalk. Designers took short jeans dresses as a basis, and cloths enclosed in wooden frames were worn directly on top of them. It turned out conceptually, and in some places even delightfully.
The debut at Fashion Week was the show of designer Bertrand Guillon for Schiaparelli called "Elsa Theater". Surrealistic symbolism: eyes, the Vendome sun, the initials of Elsa Schiaparelli, pink "torn" fur set the necessary accents in the decor. Unexpected and fresh for the House was the use of a biker jacket.
Donatella Versace was very surprised, creating an unusual Atelier Versace collection in the Renaissance style. In the Paris Exchange building, girls, like lilac, pink and green orchids, appeared in wreaths and thin, almost decaying fabrics. Nothing sharp, although there were certainly elements of rigidity inherent in the Italian diva: chain mail and weaving in the form of a corset.
The real Paris kitsch could be seen at the showman Jean-Paul Gaultier. He is one of those fashion designers who have long settled on a national theme in their creative search. Drawing inspiration from year to year in his native France, he issued another portion of the Breton strip, which adorned conceptual pleated skirts, blouses and even golfs.
Ode to eccentric women is also read in the works of Giambattista Valli. Couture is his license for full-fledged, unlimited commercial creativity. Kilometers of tulle, chiffon, organza echoed the trend of the 60s and mini dresses with embroidery, color blocks and large crystals.
John Galliano, as always, challenges society, this time in the collection for Maison Margiela House. Looking at some models, you understand that the designer nevertheless spent on casting androgynous boys, which is almost nonsense for High Fashion Week. Nevertheless, the master’s clothes are poetic, with elements of rococo, glamor of the 40s, 50s and street culture of Paris. Poverty, by the way, has become another collection theme. One of the dresses is cut as if from an old potato bag, it is decorated with inscriptions and intricate hand-made embroidery of sequins and macramé. And in the finale, the bride is wrapped in a fluffy duvet wrapped in polyethylene!
The refinement of forms, classic cut and femininity of the image are always pleasing to Ulyana Sergeenko. Russian couturier this year became an official member of the Paris Fashion Syndicate. Ulyana knows how to draw a figure, how to tailor a perfect bustier depth and just make a woman a woman. And the bright oriental beauty and radiance of the night lights were reflected in the Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab shows. There were some myriads of beads, glitter and lace.
Another worthy collection is from the French fashion designer Bushra Jarrar. “Strength and tenderness”, so you can describe the theme of her evening pantsuits, airy dresses with voluminous drapery, structured satin bodices and strict silk robes. The balance between male and female helped to achieve a friend of the designer Christian Louboutin, who created pointed shoes with low heels made of crocodile leather.
ART BY RULES
Haute couture - high art of tailoring. In fact, nothing can be called haute couture if it is not created according to the rules of French law prescribed in 1868 by the Paris High Fashion Syndicate (Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne). And it's not the price - haute couture clothing is 70 percent handmade, it is created only in approved Fashion houses in Paris and requires thousands of hours of work.
