Text: Dariga Masenova HALF ITALIAN, HALF BELGIAN, ANTHONY VACCARELLO - INCREDIBLY POPULAR AT THIS TIME MODELER. HIS LINE OF CLOTHES ATTRACTS THE RADIATED VIEWS AT PARIS, AND THE RADICAL APPROACH TO DESIGN LEADS HIM TO THE RECEIVED POST OF CREATIVE DIRECTOR LINE VEREUSERS.
ANTHONY VACCARELLO:
Vaccarello was born on September 4, 1982 in Brussels. In 2006, he graduated from La Cambre School of the Arts, where he studied sculpture in addition to fashion. In the same year, the designer won first place at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography for a rather provocative collection. Thus, Anthony achieved what he wanted: trying to attract the attention of industry masters, the young Belgian met Karl Lagerfeld, thanks to whom Vaccarello began his career as a designer, taking responsibility for the Fendi fur line. In January 2009, during High Fashion Week, Anthony first presented his own conceptual collection at the Maria Luisa store in Paris. The success of the collection, which consisted of only five mini-skirts made of leather and organza, was followed by positive feedback from the fashion elite and the Anthony Vaccarello full-scale collection of the Fall-Winter 2010 season, whose face was model Lou Duillon.
After that, Vaccarello was called the "designer of clean forms." Erotic, modern and minimalist style of the fashion designer is characterized by the absence of frills and at the same time incredible sexuality. Often inspired by the work of the French "black artist" abstractionist Pierre Soulage, Vaccarello develops a silhouette full of mystery, which harmoniously combines the fragility of nudity and the radicalism of structural forms. Sometimes a designer refers to the aesthetics and manifestos of freedom of the legendary American photographer Herb Ritz, using strong colors such as orange and yellow.
In 2011, Vaccarello won the A.N.D.A.M. (Association Nationale de Développement des Arts de la Mode), after which he launched two collections for La Redoute. For the advertising campaign of his own collection, Vaccarello chose the androgenic model Anya Rubik, and Karim Sadli as the photographer.
The name Anthony Vaccarello, once sounded only in a closed circle, can now be heard very often. It cannot be ignored for two reasons: the legion of fans and how well Vaccarello clothes fit on them. The designer creates what is called “productive collections” in the fashion business - his sophisticated, tastefully sewn clothes are impressive every time.
In recent years, Vaccarello has become the favorite of many: he is in the favorites of the scandalous photographer Terry Richardson, who dressed Gwyneth Paltrow in a designer dress with candid cutouts for fashionable shooting. Following the actress, the aforementioned model Anya Rubik made a splash, appearing at the MET ball in New York in a dress from the latest Vaccarello collection. Soon, the highest paid model in the world, Gisele Bundchen, joined the ranks of supermodel fans of Vaccarello.
Models look amazingly organic in his outfits. Anthony can be attributed to the category of those designers who glorify female forms, such as, for example, couturier Azzedin Alaya. Vaccarello hosts fashion shows at the most prestigious Fashion Week in Paris. He secured his popularity at the expense of "star" fashion models such as Carly Kloss, Isabel Fontana, Joan Smalls and Anya Rubik. If Gianni Versace created the cult of models in the early 90s, today Vaccarello helps them maintain their status thanks to the provocative images that they carry to the masses. For a designer working in the fashion industry relatively recently, this is a huge plus. “I myself don’t know how it happened. I’m just friends with many models, and when they’re in Paris, they always willingly agree to help me and come on the defile.
It’s important for me to show work to a strong girl, because the image requires it: I create collections for self-confident women who are not afraid of their femininity. ”Like many talented fashion designers, Vaccarello is considered by Fashion houses as a candidate for at least the chief designer. last year, he began working with Versace on the first sign of a long-term collaboration - the capsule collection for the youth clothing line Versus Versace, founded by Donatella Versace. Design success and the subsequent growth in sales of the House of Obes he was the director of the line, he donated to him. Donatella herself entrusted him to take control of the creative process of creating the line. "I like his vision of the Versus Versace line. Energy and innovation Anthony appeals to me, because I want to be surrounded by talented people who can bring a drive to Versace House. "
Vaccarello showed the full Anthony Vaccarello x Versus Versace debut collection at Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015. The collection turned out to be impudent, youthful and risky - apparently, Vaccarello found a common language with the Italian clan.
Interestingly, both labels, Vaccarello and Versace, are close to each other in aesthetics and style. For example, a couple of years ago, Vaccarello used large metal links as the main motifs of his own collection - an industrial element that was first introduced to the fashionable world of Gianni Versace in the 80s. In addition, like the founding father of the House, Vaccarello creates a technically complex cut, the purpose of which is one: to maximize emphasize and even exaggerate the beauty of the female body. Anthony never starts with sketches, but works "over the body" so that the texture of the fabric and cut fit perfectly.
Following this, he is already finalizing the details in the sketches. In Vaccarello, there is that severity and conceptuality that is inherent only to Belgian designers. He is very strict towards himself and disciplined in his approach to design, but does not deny the influence of both cultures - southern and northern - on his temperament. “At La Cambre, when I created the dresses, everyone said:“ What an Italian approach! ”In the same years when I worked at Fendi, many repeated:“ What a “cool” design, how Belgian it is! ”
I like polar opinions, I adore something that is purely Italian and purely Belgian. "The main component of Vaccarello's design is a structure that playfully creates a form in which the body can move naturally and easily. In addition, Anthony is a workaholic and perfectionist. The prize in the French ANDAM competition gave him the necessary amount to produce the collection for the first official fashion show, which was closed by Carly Kloss.
By the way, it was the final exit that became decisive: the dress that was on the model then turned on to Gwyneth Paltrow. Anthony's dresses are compelling to draw attention to themselves, but, despite all their festivity, his ambitions do not end there. "I do not want to fall into the category of designers who sew dresses for models like Ana Rubik. My goal is to create a full-fledged wardrobe for the client." In the spring of 2014, for the first time, he presented denim in his own collection, and, despite its "mass character", the handwriting of the master was still visible in these models. It should be noted that buyers from all over the world still buy exactly the "strong", almost flashy designer clothes from Anthony Vaccarello - those that cannot be worn in everyday life. They are sure that the main purpose of the talented fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello is to create a unique, vivid image on the verge of provocation.
