Text: Lisa Epifanova AB AND ABBREVIATIONS AP AND RO (BY THE NAME OF THE MOST CULT CULTURE OF THE BRAND) WITHOUT ANY DECODES ARE KNOWN TO EVALUATOR OF A LOVELY WATCH. MANUFACTURE AUDEMARS PIGUET TAKES A SPECIAL, UNIQUE PLACE EVEN IN THE SELECTED SOCIETY OF SWISS HISTORICAL HOUR HOUSES. WE WILL TRY TO UNDERSTAND WHY.
Beginning of a wonderful friendship
To begin with, Audemars Piguet is the only Swiss manufactory that not only retained full independence, but is still managed by the families of its founders. Today, the company is owned by Jasmine and Olivier Odemar, as well as Polette Piguet, direct descendants of two watchmaking friends who signed a partnership agreement on December 17, 1881 and founded a joint atelier in the mountain Le Brassus.
Both Jules Audemar and Eduard Piguet came from ancient watch dynasties, but had different talents. If the first already in his youth won the fame of one of the best masters of the region, the second was an unsurpassed businessman, subtly feeling the tastes of the public. As a result, what began as a 10-year contract turned into a journey lasting more than 130 years. In the twentieth century, ultrafine mechanisms became the specialization of Audemars Piguet.
In 1911, the brand launched the first ladies watch decorated with diamonds, the basis of which was the smallest movement at that time. In addition, the company has several historical records in this area: the thinnest pocket watch (1925), the thinnest wristwatch (1946), the thinnest self-winding movement (1967). But a radical revolution in the image and fate of the family Watch House came with the birth of the Royal Oak model in 1972.
Royal oak
Hundreds of books have been written about this watch, probably more than about any other model. Many exciting details are known: the invitation of the still little-known designer Gerald Genti, the deafening failure of the first series (in all markets except Italian), and the desperate faith of the owners of Audemars Piguet in the future of their offspring.
Paradoxically, the question, which over time has been almost forgotten, concerns the origin of the name of the collection. Why Royal Oak, "Royal Oak"? The story is quite interesting, since it begins back in 1651, when the English king Charles II, pursued by Cromwell’s troops, found shelter in the branches of a mighty oak. Here's what the romantic episode has to say about Audemars Piguet’s story at the factory itself: “Named later as the Royal Oak, this tree became a starting point for Charles II in the struggle to regain the throne, and for England - a symbol of protection, security and power.
In memory of this, between 1769 and 1914, the British fleet will receive four ships named HMS Royal Oak. The distinguishing features of one of them are: an oak nose reinforced with steel plates and octagonal side cannon hatches. "
As a result, Royal Oak with an octagonal screw-mounted welt became virtually a synonym for Audemars Piguet watches, eventually displacing other collections. In 1993, the legendary Royal Oak Offshore series was born - a brutal shockproof version in the case of the most durable innovative materials. In addition, in the 90s, versions of the Royal Oak appeared one after another with a second time zone, a date display, a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and, finally, in 1997, on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the collection, an automatic model with a tourbillon. In total, about 700 (!) Variations of Royal Oak were developed - it is not surprising that this watch could always find its “owner”, many of which turned out to be powerful in this world.
From kings to presidents
Back in the late 1980s, Audemars Piguet began to take shape as the brand that celebrities choose. Probably because such a watch is difficult to miss and not recognize on the hand - on the pages of the secular chronicle Royal Oak was unmistakably recognized on the wrists of Bill Clinton and Margaret Thatcher (the “iron lady” preferred Lady Royal Oak), chess player Garry Kasparov and the “terminator” Arnold Schwarzenegger.
With the onset of the new millennium, the number of eminent fans of the brand has increased many times. These are movie stars Scarlett Johansson and Hugh Jackman, the musician Jay-Z, the best football players in the world, Cristiano Ronaldo and Leo Messi, and, of course, the brand’s envoy since 2010, the legendary racer Michael Schumacher. Associated with one of the most interesting recent additions to the Royal Oak collection - Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher.
This is the world's first wrist mechanical chronograph with flyback function and the ability to measure the travel time of several consecutive laps of the track, specially made for reliable and faultlessly accurate timing of ring racing. And the first timepiece in the history of manufacture, created in honor of his messenger, and besides, according to his idea.
Schumacher began developing this watch with the engineers of the manufactory three years ago, but then, in 2013, he was seriously injured while skiing in Grenoble. Having learned about this tragedy, Audemars Piguet decided not to delay either the project itself or its world premiere. The presentation of the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher took place in the spring of 2015 at the Schumacher cottage in France.
“We are proud that we were able to realize the dream of the legendary racer and take a serious step forward in watch mechanics,” Francois-Henri Bennamias, president of Audemars Piguet, admitted to the assembled guests.
Millenary collection
But the title of the second "visiting card" Audemars Piguet rightfully won the collection, which appeared already on the eve of the new millennium and received the corresponding name - Millenary. The unusual recognizable design of the Audemars Piguet watch is interpreted here very interestingly, while the dial does not look too curved.
By the way, this design was a direct continuation of the style of the ladies watch in the form of an ellipse, produced by Audemars Piguet in the 70s of the last century.
Last year, the manufactory celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Millenary collection, in honor of which it introduced a large and diverse line of new products, the motto of which was the phrase "Haute Joaillerie meets Haute Horlogerie" ("High jewelry art meets high mechanics"). The hand-winding caliber 5201, specially developed for this series, is placed in a case made of pink gold filigree and decorated with diamonds.
Audemars Piguet treasures the status of an independent family manufactory, and despite the huge demand, it still produces no more than 25 thousand hours a year. But what! This is the secret of the incredible popularity of the brand all over the world - in absolute freedom. Audemars Piguet is not afraid to take risks and cross the borders that she herself has created.
O DIAMOND PUNK
The case and bracelet of the Diamond Punk model cover 7848 diamonds using the technique of "snow" inlay and complex geometric configuration, consisting of 57 different pyramids. Under the sliding shutter is a dial adorned with another 300 diamonds. The creation of this watch required 1,440 hours of work of artists and jewelers of the manufactory, but their owner, however, was just a moment away to feel like a queen.
